Posts Tagged ‘scooter’s custom works’
Lets talk Batcopter.
Well, we don’t always like to talk about stuff that’s still so far out in development that it may not happen. If it doesn’t have a distributor’s sku number attached to it, I prefer to wait until it does, (or wait until it gets abandoned, and then dangle the development info like sweet & salty chocolate cherry tears…)
But I digress. So many people have been emailing me about the possible upcoming Hot Wheels Batcopter that I thought we’d talk about it a bit. AND since they (Mattel) *borrowed* a custom Batcopter photo from a fellow customizer, I have no issue messing with their wrath, as it were. The little Batcopter in the cluster photo is a custom 1:94 scale (roughly 1:64 or Matchbox/HO car size) Here’s how we get the scale by the way – the real Batcopter (Bell 47) is 31′ 7 long. That converted down to the 4″ scale of this little diecast is roughly 1:94 scale. But it fits in well with the 1:64 scale Corgi or Hot Wheels vehicles. And we used foreground forced perspective to make it look right with the other 1:50 vehicles in the photo. But likely the real Hot wheels version will be bigger and out of scale with these vehicles.
So – first lets get the factual info out of the way, because it’s really minimal right now. Yes, the HW Batcopter is “confirmed” as going into production in 2012. And it will be part of the 1:50 line. That doesn’t mean it will be 1:50 scale. Only that it will be on that general card size. Like the Batcycle which was closer to 1:35 scale, it just needs to be part of that same blister-card set of vehicles for Hot Wheels to call it 1:50 scale. Remember folks, they’re a TOY company. Not a scale-model company. They don’t care about you. Only about your cash.
That said, they did such a nice job with the Batcycle and Batboat that I’m personally stoked about it. Polar Lights has also hinted that they are not ruling out a Batcopter model kit in the near future. But all of that plus about $4.50 will get you a cup of iced Chai at Starbucks. It’s all wishful thinking until we get wind of a Sku.
Meanwhile, in the “wouldn’t it be great” category, we hope they get the wings right. There are two schools of thought on the wings. However, only one of them is correct. You can always tell a good Batcopter custom from a bad one based on the shape of the wings. The Batcopter wings were NOT rounded outward toward the fore edges like a cartoon Halloween bat. They may look like they curve go that way in some shots, but most shots in the movie were from the side or 3/4 and yes – in those angles it creates an optical illusion as though the wings were curved inward away from the cockpit toward the aft tail section. But they were not. Some modelers pattern the wings after what they assume they are seeing. (Witness the photo. No offense to Cesare, but this is totally incorrect.)

The wrong way to shape Batcopter wings. (sorry Cesare)
Few shots exist looking down on the copter from directly above, but enough evidence has been collected over the years by those in the know that reveal that the flattened shape of the wings actually form a swoop-out, like a stylized, drapy “V” from the cockpit.
Here’s a custom mego-sized copter from above that was not designed for scale accuracy, but which shows the wings close to their correct shape.
One of the best shots indicating the wing shape is a vintage photo that shows a planned Batcopter model kit from a well-known model company. The accompanying drawings and mock-ups show researched measurements and dimensions. The challenge after getting the right shape is to then curve them upward correctly, so they take on the correct parabolic effect. What was achieved with struts in real life is a bit of a challenge to get right (and symmetrical) in a scale model.

Flattened 1966 TV Batcopter wing pattern.
Lets hope that Hot Wheels does as good a job on their 1966 TV Batcopter research as they did on the Batcycle and the Batboat. (not that they were perfect, but they were certainly better than expected) We’ll let you know when we have any release data.
1:25 Batcave Project: Back To The Lake
Editor’s Note: The following post has been migrated over from our now defunct Batcave Blog and dates originally from October, 2008:
After we added the foam putty to fill in seams that the foam layers created, we hot-glued real river pebbles to the base of the grotto floor. We then spread more foam putty down and shook out various sizes of model railroad “ballast” pebbles to give it a cave lake feel. Again, we were going for NorthEastern US Limestone cave lake. I have actually been caving all through Pennsylvania and the cave streams I’ve crawled through are pretty green-covered and cold.
We then added some suede spray paint for a mossy look and added some putty and our own water effect techniques to create a wet area. Decals were added to the drainage pipes and set with micro-sol, then weathered.
As I mentioned before, this is not just the 1966 TV cave, so why not expand the aquatic transportation options? We thought Robin should get his own watercraft. I used to own and ride a big 3-person Seadoo so we thought that would be great to sneak into the cave. Alexander drew and colored many designs. We ended up with a color scheme similar to his 70′s motorcycle.
I wasn’t concerned about getting this model back out of the clear water resin later so we just mounted it on a clear rod to the lake bottom.
Then we clamped up the side openings with wood and plastic tape, and started filling with water. Well, clear resin. We tried several brands and types on some test surfaces. Some cured too slowly, some had an incredibly bad chemical odor as they degassed. Some were made for floral arrangements and cured as a soft, jello-like consistency. The Woodland Scenics product was the absolute worst. It was basically thinned down water-based polyurethane. Absolutely useless for anything but giving the whole bottom a wet look. We needed volume. After finding a great but expensive One-To-One ratio 2-part epoxy product at Michael’s, called Easy cast, I went online to try to get it in bulk, cheaper. Success! I found gallons of it for a bit more than twice the cost of the tiny samples they sell at Michael’s. I highly recommend this clear casting epoxy for all water effects.
We still had to pour the lake in half-inch thick increments. As we did, we mounted small fish, crayfish and a few other items to give the area some action and depth. It is very hard to see in photos, but we’ll try to show some of the depth later. Here is our workspace as we added layers of lake, .25″ and 24 hours at a time.
1:25 Batcave Project: Lake Effect
Editor’s Note: The following post has been migrated over from our now defunct Batcave Blog and dates originally from September, 2008:
Our goal is to mix elements of the 1966 TV Batcave with some of our favorite comics stuff and some of our own inventions as well. So -
The TV Batboat is super cool but never lived in the Batcave on TV. They had to drive to the marina to get to it. That seems unlikely and awkward to us. Just slightly less goofy than having the Batmobile actually trailer it. (a la the Corgi gift pack) I always loved the idea that the cave housed EVERYTHING. So we are borrowing from the comics the idea of an underground Grotto that is a tributary to Gotham harbor. Our back-story is that perhaps Batman expanded an already existing grotto to his needs.
In the diorama – I wanted this far enough away from the center TV Atomic Pile area so we are placing it to the far right. And since that’s our cave exit, we needed a bridge for the Batmobile. And a grotto or cave lake for the Batboat that could actually handle real depth.
We started by creating a light but rigid base for the lake out of slices of pink insulating styrofoam (home depot) and used Project Glue for Foam to put them together.
Then we needed to seal it up to be able to actually support our “water.” We used these great products to seal up the seams and then provide some underwater lake effects.
We decided that the Batcave grotto would be a typical East Coast limestone based cave lake and so most of the ballast (rocks) got the grey/green mossy treatment that we see around PA a lot. It was a challenge to remember and plan for all this to be sealed underwater. We also decided that perhaps the Atomic Pile would need a cooling system so there are intake and outake pipes in the lake walls. Made from trimmed pieces of silver cable hiding hoses and then weathered and decals added.
We built the bridge after a design that Alexander drew. I liked it because it was a little Burton-esque yet not unrealistic. We made it out of balsa, painted it silver with hammered aluminum for the texture and then weathered it and added the big rivet bolts and the non-skid surface. We dropped it into place and then foam-puttied around the struts.
We planned to fill the lake bed with clear railroad water effect resin. I wanted the Batboat to be immersed realistically in “water” but I also did not want to permanently embed my Jim Apitz-made batboat model in clear resin. So we decided to grab a spare Polar Lights Batboat hull, and mount it in the lake bottom, seal it with plastic wrap for easier removal later, then pour the resin in around it. The theory was that when we had the right water level and it had hardened – we just pop out the spare hull and put the Batboat model in its place. Well it was a great idea that we didn’t think through completely. More on that later.














